Monday, 10 September 2012

Walking the cliffs part 3.

Walking the cliffs part 3.

So this is what I walked so far to see?
( below, Maiden Castle, an ancient promontory fort, as seen from the footpath) 

( above, the furthest, shallowest end of the Fort)

When I woke up that morning, when I looked out of the window and saw what a beautiful day it was, maybe even the best day of the whole year, I knew this is where I wanted to be. I’ve walked past this distinctive landmark many times before and studied it from the cliff top path, but on this day, I wanted to stand on top of it. I’ve climbed it a couple of times before, every time I do it the task is more difficult than it was before. I get older and stiffer and the land becomes more and more overgrown, and on each occasion I stand on the top, look over the landscape and think to myself, savour this, remember this, because this could be the last time. And this time it was extremely difficult. At times I didn’t think I was going to make it.
( the steepest track down into the ditch, very overgrown)

‘It’, is an ancient promontory fort situated on a small outcrop of land laying 100 foot above the sea. On the seaward side the cliffs drop sharply into the sea where clusters of smaller jagged rocks protrude above the waves. On the landward side the remains of the rampart, or vallum and the fosse (bank and ditch) are clearly visible. 
 (the tiny track at the bottom of the ditch to the back of the fort)

The other side of the ditch the earth bank remains of the little fort rise up about twenty feet out of the ditch. There were two clearly defined tracks down the vallum into the fosse at the bottom, one was relatively short but very steep and one was relatively long but more shallow and descended at an angle cutting across the vallum. There were other less well defined tracks but those two were the most established.
 ( climbing up the track to the top of the Fort)
The first time I climbed this little fort a few years ago I took the steep track down, but even then I found it difficult to descent so quickly at such a steep incline on a narrow track that was wet and slippery. Since then I have always taken the other track. 

 ( almost at the top)
It’s difficult to assess the depth of this ditch because it’s difficult to see all of it at once, but I think it’s at least twenty foot and some descriptions of the fort say its 30 foot. On this particular day I looked for the tracks, the first one would have been the steep one, the more shallow track was another 30 foot along the path. It looked undisturbed since the last time I was there. The bank was completely overgrown with long grass, nettles and brambles. I found the steep track, it was very overgrown but at least I could see it. I considered going down that way but pretty soon realised I wouldn’t make it and it looked a long way to end up sliding and falling. I walked along the path looking for the other track but when I did eventually find it, it was completely overgrown with nettles. Fortunately, I had taken my walking stick with me. 
 ( at the top of the widest part, looking back to the narrow end)
I edged down the track beating the nettles out of the way as I went. It was wet and boggy underfoot and most of the time I couldn’t see the ground beneath the undergrowth. With every step I had no idea how far my foot would sink into the vegetation before I felt firm land beneath it. It took forever to edge down that ditch, and I must admit there were times when little nagging doubts began to creep in, I remember thinking, what if I can’t get out?? 

 ( flat land in front of the Fort, and three sisters rock formation)
Bashing those nettles out of the way was a horrible job and I ended up with lots of nettle rash. Once at the bottom I had to edge along the bottom of ditch back toward the direction I had come. I was heading for the tiny track that led to the back of the fort. I know from previous occasions the side of this little fort that faces the path is much too steep to climb, the only way up is to walk around the back and climb up that way. I also knew that I needed to walk along the side of the ditch for as far as I could because once I started to cross the bottom of the ditch my feet would sink into a boggy mess. The bottom of the ditch remains marshy all year and my feet sink to ankle level. I walked as far as I could before crossing to the other side of the ditch and then headed for the little track that disappeared around the back of the fort. Once at the back, and out of sight of the path, the fort rises on the landward side and beneath the fort, an area of flat land stretches out toward the cliff edge and the sea. 
 
 ( flat land beneath the fort on seaward side)
I have never walked across this little piece of land. I’m not sure where the land ends and the cliffs begin and, being directly behind the fort, it’s completely blocked from view of the path. At the back of the fort there are two choices, the first track up to the top is so steep it’s almost vertical, but walk further along the base of the fort and the incline is easier. I took the second track, the shallow one. But even here the track was overgrown with long grass, I climbed up on all fours using the long grass to hang on to and pull myself up with. The track leads to the top of the narrowest end of the fort. The earth mound that is all that’s left of the fort is long and narrow at one end but widens along the ridge toward the other end. The top is barley two foot wide at the narrow end but widens to about six foot at the other end, and it was all vey overgrown.  I walked along the ridge of the fort toward the widest point, smashing the undergrowth out of the way as I went. And once I was there, I just stood and admired the view. One of the reasons I love being there is because it makes me feel as if I am standing on top of the world. 


Standing on top of the fort and looking left you get a spectacular view of a rock formation knows as the three sisters which jut out from a disused fishing cove called Carlingheugh Bay. 
 
In front of you the sea stretches out toward the horizon, 
 ( looking right)
 
looking right you get a perfect view of another tiny sheltered sandy bay, and looking behind, inland, you see miles and miles of farmland.
 ( farmland seen from the top of the fort)

This, to me, is the perfect spot. I didn’t stay long this time, the ground on top of the fort was too overgrown to sit down, I would have liked to sit and admire the view but instead I just stood for 15 minutes or so, standing on top of the world.  Negotiating my way back was just as difficult, when I reached the safety of the footpath I had to take my shoes off and tip the water out, they smelt like a putrid bog which wasn’t pleasant. The whole thing was exhausting, but well worth the effort. On the way back I saw some people fishing out on the rocks, a perfect end to a perfect day.

3 comments:

  1. All the time I was reading your wonderful description, I was hoping you remembered to take your mobile. I don't think I'd be brave enough to take that hike alone. What breathtaking views you've captured - almost as good as seeing them in person.

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  2. Good Morning Brenda and thank you, don't worry I had my mobile, I even charged it before leaving, but I'm not too sure I would have got a signal. Anyway, I've done it before so it was OK.

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  3. Just got back from having dinner with Ed. He sends you his regards too. When you find out how things export to here, please post the results. I like your idea, but was going to wait until I got back to Madrid.

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