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No
buildings today, no Castles, no Tower Houses, no ancient stairways, no
gun loops and no vaulted cellars. Instead, a vast prehistoric deposit of
rich red sandstone, 350 million years worth of the stuff. And this is
the basic building material of all those castles and fortified houses in
and around Angus. Travel further north or down to Edinburgh and the
castles are built from Granite, stone local to that area, but here it is
red sandstone, found in abundance around this, the astoundingly
beautiful North East Coast of the cruel North Sea.
These
cliffs, caves and stacks are the result of relatively recent and
ongoing erosion of the soft sandstone deposited so long ago. The cliffs
are reached from the far end of Victoria Park, Arbroath at the end of
the promenade, less than half a mile from the centre of town. The whole
area from Victoria Park right along the Cliff top pathway is a
designated 'Site of Special Scientific Interest', or SSSI as it
is known. This is on account of the spectacular rock, stack and outcrop
formations AND the vast numbers of nesting seabirds AND the numerous
rare flora and fauna prevalent in the area. In fact, it has just about
everything anyone could possible want for a nature loving day out.
If
you follow the cliff top path from Whiting Ness at the north end of
Victoria Park you reach the start of the reserve near a sandstone arch
known locally as Needles Eye. Beyond that is Dickmonts Den, Devil's Heid
and Carlingheugh Bay and then Seaton Den. You can stop and just sit a
for while in perfect peace,just gazing out to sea, sometimes you get to
see dolphins jumping and diving as they swim north where they breed.
Always there is the sound of the sea birds screeching overhead and the
sea crashing against the foot of the rocks. Sitting at the top of the
cliffs gives a peculiar view of the swooping, soaring birds, very often
they are actually flying lower down the cliff face than where you are
sitting. Sometimes you're just sitting on top of the cliffs taking in
the beauty, mesmerised by sun light sparkling on the blue water, when
suddenly a bird will appear from below the edge of the cliff and sore up
and up above you. There are Gulls, Gannets, Fulmars, Rock Doves, House
Martins and my favourite, Puffins, with their bright red beaks. I
especially like to see the Puffins, like little painted birds who
imitate clowns. At low tide the waders come and poke around in the pools
left behind by the sea.
Other
people go to see the variety of wild flowers, some of the flowering
plants are quite rare. There are tiny little wild pink orchids that I
see sometimes, not sure exactly what they are called but they are very
pretty. I think one of the most amazing things about this place is it's
age, it gives a sense of continuity. For thousands, who knows millions
of years, people have been living here. There are some very ancient cart
tracks that show where the ancient people mined the sandstone from the
foot of the cliffs and dragged it up by the cartload. This Red Sandstone
has been the basic building blocks for all buildings in and around this
area for all time, for as long as people have been erecting buildings
around here this sandstone has been used.
The
peace found up here is akin to sitting way up in the eves of a medieval
cathedral. It offers that kind of peace and tranquillity, and yet it is
far from silent with the crashing sea, the screeching birds and
sometimes the howling wind. Beautiful, ancient, peaceful yet full of
history and full of life. Oh how I love this place, if I were to give it
a visitor rating it would have to be
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Sunday, 19 August 2012
June 7th, 2007, 360 import, Seaton Cliffs
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